The Truth About Removing Brow Lamination Perm: Wet vs. Dry
There’s been a lot of discussion online and in beauty forums lately about whether or not to remove brow lamination perm with water. Some say it ruins the lift, others claim it impacts brow health, and there’s even concern about how it affects the overall result. With so many mixed opinions, it’s time to set the record straight.
At The London Brow Company, we were the first to introduce Brow Lamination to the UK and the USA, getting our courses accredited on both sides of the pond. With years of experience, specially formulated products, and a team of experts, we’re here to give you the facts.
For the London Brow PRO Lamination System, our professional protocol uses wet removal. Step 1 should be thoroughly removed according to the current London Brow instructions before the next stage is applied. Because systems from other manufacturers can use different formulations and protocols, professionals should always follow the instructions for the exact system they are using.
Understanding the Science Behind Brow Perming
To fully understand why wet removal is so important, it helps to know a bit about how brow perming works:
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Step 1 – Perm Solution: The perm solution (step 1) works by breaking down the disulphide bonds in the hair, which are responsible for its shape. By breaking these bonds, we can reshape the brow hairs into a new, more defined form. However, the perm solution continues working until it’s completely removed. If left on too long, it can over-process the hair, causing damage.
- Why Wet Removal? With London Brow PRO, wet removal helps the professional thoroughly remove Step 1 before progressing. Follow the current PRO instructions for removal technique and do not leave processing product on the hair beyond the instructed treatment stage.
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Step 2 – Neutraliser: Neutraliser is responsible for reforming the disulphide bonds broken in step 1, fixing the hair in its new shape. It also reseals the hair’s cuticle and returns the brow’s pH balance to a neutral level. However, neutraliser cannot stop the perming process—it only reforms the broken bonds. That’s why step 1 must be fully removed with water first.
If the perm solution is not properly removed before neutralising, the bonds will continue to break, and the neutraliser won’t work effectively. This can lead to weakened, brittle brows.
London Brow PRO: A Waterproof Wet-Removal System
London Brow PRO was developed as a waterproof brow lamination system, allowing trained professionals to use the wet-removal protocol set out in our current instructions without treating contact with water during the service as something that will automatically ruin the lift.
This is a feature of the London Brow PRO treatment protocol. It should not be used as a universal instruction for every brow-lamination brand; always work from the current instructions for the products in front of you.
Brow Lamination and Lash Lift Protocols Are Not Interchangeable
Brow lamination and lash lifting both involve professional restructuring systems, but technicians should not assume that the removal method, timings or sequencing for one product automatically applies to another. Follow the instructions supplied with the specific brow or lash system being used.
Does Wet Removal Mean Clients Need to Keep Their Brows Dry Afterwards?
Treatment-step removal and client aftercare are two different things. Aftercare should follow the current instructions for the lamination system used. We do not recommend applying an automatic 24–48-hour dry rule to every brow-lamination product or protocol.
Why London Brow PRO Uses Wet Removal
For London Brow PRO, wet removal is part of our professional treatment method and helps ensure Step 1 is thoroughly removed before the next stage. Trained users should follow the current London Brow PRO instructions for application, processing and removal.
For other brands or formulations, follow that manufacturer's instructions rather than assuming the London Brow protocol applies.
At The London Brow Company, we are proud to offer products and techniques that are backed by science and designed to keep your clients’ brows healthy and beautiful. Our waterproof PRO system is designed around a wet-removal protocol that gives trained professionals a clear, repeatable treatment method when the instructions are followed correctly.
If you have any questions about our brow lamination process or need more information about our waterproof system, don’t hesitate to reach out. We’re always here to help you provide the best possible care for your clients.
With the right techniques and innovative products, you can give your clients the beautifully lifted brows they desire while ensuring the health and integrity of their hair. For London Brow PRO professionals, remember: follow the current PRO instructions and wet-removal protocol at every treatment.
Can You Remove or Reverse a Finished Brow Lamination?
If you have already had a brow lamination and are searching for how to remove, undo or reverse it, that is different from the professional wet-removal step described above. Do not apply additional perming, neutralising or other chemical products at home in an attempt to reverse the treatment.
If you are unhappy with a finished lamination, contact the trained professional who carried out the service. They can assess the condition of the brow hairs and advise on appropriate grooming or aftercare. If the skin or eye area is irritated, swollen or otherwise reacting unexpectedly, seek appropriate medical advice.
Professionals can explore the London Brow PRO Lamination range and our professional brow training.
