Brow Lamination Troubleshooting & Solutions
Issue: Brows look curly or bent at the ends the following day
This is most commonly caused by pressure on the brows during the first 24 hours, usually from sleeping on them before the hair has fully set.
Why this happens:
During the first 24–48 hours post-lamination, the brow hair is still mouldable. Friction or pressure can cause the ends to kink or curl.
Professional Solutions:
✔ Reinforce the “Set When Wet” rule. When clients wash their brows, they should gently brush them back into position while damp to retrain the hair.
✔ Advise clients to be mindful of their sleeping position on the first night and avoid pressing brows into pillows where possible.
Issue: Brow hair loss in the main brow area after 2–3 weeks
Hair loss post-lamination is almost always due to chemical over-processing or structural weakness.
Common Causes & Corrections:
🚫 Incomplete removal of Step 1 (Perm Solution)
If Step 1 is not fully removed using the wet removal method, it can continue processing the hair, leading to excessive dryness, internal damage, and eventual breakage.
✔ Solution: Always remove Step 1 thoroughly with a damp cotton pad. The brow should feel clean and residue-free, not simply wiped over.
🚫 Incorrect neutralisation (Step 2)
If Step 2 is removed too early, the cuticle remains open and unstable, leaving the hair weak and vulnerable.
If tint or henna is applied immediately after lamination, rinsing with water can also wash away Step 2 before full neutralisation occurs.
✔ Solution: Allow Step 2 to complete its full processing time before moving on to tinting or henna to ensure the hair structure is fully re-sealed.
Issue: Main brow lifts well but starts and tails appear sparse or under-processed
Why this happens:
Brow starts and tails are typically finer and more delicate than the main brow body. Processing them at the same time can result in uneven lift or unnecessary damage.
Professional Solution:
✔ Apply Step 1 to the main brow hairs first.
✔ Once the main brow has processed, apply Step 1 separately to the starts and tails.
This staged approach protects finer hairs while ensuring an even, controlled lift across the entire brow.
Issue: Client develops eczema or irritation in the brow area post-lamination
This indicates excessive chemical exposure to the skin rather than the hair.
Why this happens:
Perm solutions are designed to work on hair bonds, not skin. Prolonged or excessive contact can compromise the skin barrier.
Professional Solution:
✔ Apply Step 1 directly to the brow hairs, avoiding unnecessary skin contact.
✔ A minimal amount touching the skin is acceptable, but excess product must be avoided.
Less chemical contact with the skin equals a safer, more comfortable treatment for the client.
Issue: Brows appear wild, unruly, or won’t stay in place
This is a clear sign of dehydrated or protein-depleted brow hair.
Why this happens:
Chemical services temporarily weaken the hair structure. Without proper aftercare, brows can lose elasticity and control.
Professional Solution:
✔ Recommend targeted aftercare such as:
• Keratin Boost Serum
• Brow Doctor Mask
These products restore moisture, rebuild strength, and help brows remain soft, flexible, and manageable while maintaining the laminated effect.
Issue: Brows feel “wavy,” hard, or crispy to the touch
This is an indication of over-processing, even if it appears minor.
Why this happens:
Excessive perm time or frequent laminations can cause the hair cuticle to become rigid and brittle.
Professional Solutions:
✔ Recommend The London Brow Doctor to help repair and rebuild damaged brow bonds.
✔ For future treatments, reduce perm processing time or extend the interval between lamination services.
Prevention is key — slightly under-processing is always safer than pushing the hair past its tolerance level.
Issue: Brows didn’t lift properly or dropped quickly
Some clients naturally have downward-growing brow hairs, which can affect retention.
Professional Strategies to Improve Results:
1️⃣ Educate clients on “Set When Wet” — brushing brows into place after washing helps retrain the hair pattern.
2️⃣ Recommend London Brow Gel during the first week to reinforce shape and support the setting phase.
3️⃣ Create a slightly more structured or “over-bold” lift initially, allowing the brows to relax into their final shape after the 24–48 hour setting period.
Professional Tip:
As with hair perms, a stronger initial lift generally results in longer-lasting results. However, pushing the hair beyond its natural limit increases the risk of breakage — balance is essential.
Issue: Redness, irritation, or burns above the brows
Chemical burns are caused by prolonged skin exposure to Step 1.
Professional Solution:
✔ Always apply a protective barrier (such as Vaseline) around the brow area before treatment.
✔ Keep perm solution strictly on the brow hairs and minimise skin contact throughout the service.
This simple step significantly reduces the risk of irritation and ensures a safer lamination experience.
How long should clients wait between Brow Lamination treatments?
We recommend waiting 6–8 weeks between full Brow Lamination services, depending on the client’s natural brow growth cycle and hair condition.
✔ Tinting, shaping, and tidy-up appointments can safely be carried out between lamination treatments if required.